Machu Picchu

Hummers in Cuzco, Abra Malaga and Machu Picchu

Hummingbirds are such fantastic creatures. No closer presentation or introduction is needed. Let’s just look at a sample of all the hummingbirds that can be seen in SE Peru on a tour that includes Machu Picchu and Manu National Park.

In this first delivery I present the hummers in Cuzco with surroundings such as Huacarpay lake , Abra Malaga and Machu Picchu. The following deliveries will treat Manu Road and the Manu lowlands.
I shall do frequent updates to this post to include more photos as I get them. All pictures are clickable for larger images and contain the name of the species as you pass the cursor over it.

All pictures in this installment are made by Alex Durand with a Vortex Nomad telescope and a small Fuji pòint and shoot camera.

White-tufted Sunbeam. Photo: Alex Durand

Bearded Mountaineer. Photo: Alex Durand

Bearded Mountaineer. Photo: Alex Durand

Coppery-naped Puffleg. Photo. Alex Durand.

Chestnut-breasted Coronet. Photo: Alex Durand

White-bellied Hummingbird.  Photo: Alex Durand

Olivaceous Thornbill.  Photo: Alex Durand

Gould's Inca

Great Sapphirewing. Photo: Alex Durand

Giant Hummingbird

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Why birds?

Birdwatching is a specialized hobby. The birdwatchers aim to see hundreds of birds during a holiday in Peru. However, there are certain birds that transcend to more normal tourists. Some birds that you don’t have to be a birdwatcher to appreciate. Those birds that will leave an impact on anyone who lays eyes on them. These kinds of birds become banner species and tourist attractions and could be decisive to turn a non-birder into a birder. They are also important for conserving habitat and supporting local small scale businesses which often give direct revenue to local communities. I hereby present the 11 most important birds in Peru as tourism attractions.

Condor

Andean Condor

Emblematic bird of the Andes. 100.000 people travel yearly to Colca Canyon near Arequipa to see the mighty Condor. Kolibri Expeditions have found a good viable population in Santa Eulalia canyon only 3 hours from Lima, which also is a good place to see this majestic bird. You’d be surprised to learn that most tourists that come to Peru, those that do not visit Colca or Santa Eulalia Canyon, will not see a condor in spite it being such a tremendously important symbol of Peru and the Andes. The closest they will get is hearing “Condor pasa” – the Peruvian song Simon and Garfunkel made world famous. At every little coffee shop to every fine restaurant in Cusco you will hear it played with panpipes and charrango. You cannot avoid it – not escape it!
Strangely enough Peru has yet to raise the awareness of the importance of the species for eco-tourism in other rural areas. As such it may become an important cash cow for communities. This would change the present situation in many places where the species is persecuted and seriously threatened.

Macaw-lick

Blue-and-Yellow Macaw & Scarlet Macaw. Photo: Tim RyanThere are two major macaw-licks in SE Peru where these giant parrots descend on sunny clay river cliffs to ingest the clay with thousands of other parrots. The best one that attracts 5 species of macaws is situated in the Tambopata area near Tambopata Research Center.  There is extremely important Macaw research going on here and you can help as a participant volunteer. See Tambopata Macaw Project. The other important one is downriver from Manu at Blanquillo near in vicinity of several lodges.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock

Andean Cock-of-the-RockWow! Exclamation mark is necessary! This surreal member of the Cotinga family has a wide distribution from Venezuela to Bolivia. It is one of the most colorful birds of the Andes. The males gather in “lek” – displays – where the perform ritual dances and make noisy grunts and shrieks. In many places leks have become tourism attractions. The most famous is perhaps next to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, but there are several places in Central and Northern Peru where leks also can be seen. Locally, it has become good incentives to conserve forest. Since the cock-of-the-rock is also un-officially national bird of Peru kids all over the country learn to appreciate it. Only five years ago, when traveling in Central Peru inquiring where I could see it, I was directed to the zoo or a man that allegedly had stuffed ones for sale! Things have changed now.

Inca Tern

Inca Tern IncaternIts coral red bill and feet, and yellow and white waxy mustache on a slaty blackish body makes the Inca Tern the most beautiful Tern of the world.  This specialty of the Humboldt Current is not difficult to see in large numbers. In many places it can be approached for a photograph.  A spectacular event on the Lima pelagics is when the fish scrap leftover that is used to attract seabirds at the high sea is thrown out after the boat and up to a thousand Inca Terns come in to the stern.

Hummingbird feeders

Rufous-crested Coquette. Photo: Alex DuranWire-crested Thorntail

Peru has yet to develop more places with hummingbird feeders, but the ones available are truly spectacular. My favorites are the following.

Amazonia Lodge at the bottom of Manu road, with specialties such as the rare Rufous-crested Coquette, Koepcke’s Hermit and Gould’s Jewelfront and another dozen of more common hummers such as White-necked Jacobin, Blue Emerald, Gray-breasted Sabrewing and Black-eared Fairy come to the garden with feeders and blue vervain in front of the ample porch of the main building..

Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel the luxurious hotel with precious subtropical gardens decorated with orchids and bromeliads at the foot of Machu Picchu next to Aguas Calientes village. The hotel also have dozens of well maintained hummingbird feeders spread out in the compound open only to its guests. The specialties include Gould’s Inca, White-bellied Hummingbird, Long-tailed Sylph, Chestnut-breasted Coronet and Booted Racket-tail.

Cock-of the-Rock Lodge on the Manu road, has a open veranda dining room looking out to the garden where tanagers are fed and Blue Vervain and feeders attract the hummingbirds. The specialties include Violet-fronted Brilliant, Many-spotted Hummingbird, Wire-crested Thorn-tail, Booted Racket-tail and many more.

Marvelous Spatuletail


If I should choose just one hummingbird species in Peru this would be the one. It is the most spectacular Hummingbird in Peru. The male has long streamers ending in blue rackets. It may not yet be a large tourist attraction since it occurs only in Amazonas department and a bit off the beaten track for most general tourists coming to Peru, but it is certainly on the birdwatcher’s radar on the Northern Birding Circuit and the principle attraction. Kolibri Expeditions has initiated a project here together with local farmer Santos Montenegro obtaining funds through our clients allowing Santos to buy some land from his neighbors. The idea is to turn the small reserve to a Hummingbird information center.

Chilean Flamingo

Chilean Flamingo
Flamingos are big tourist attractions all over the world, and the Chilean Flamingo in Peru is not an exception, especially since legend has that the flamingos San Martin saw in Paracas before leading the liberation from Spain, inspired to the design of the Peruvian flag. There is not a person in Peru, that is not familiar with this story. Unfortunately, many flamingo colonies are well off the beaten track, except that of wintering flamingos still present at the Paracas bay. One may hope however those remote flamingo colonies could be integrated in sustainable tourism packages and this way supply income to local communities at the same time protecting the colonies. The practice common is the past to scare the colony to take flight for a photograph, is fortunately no longer carried out. It seems to me that Peruvian awareness for the well being of the natural attractions has increased in recent years.

Hoatzin.

HoatzinWithout being a particularly rare bird, the Hoatzin inhabits lake sides. It prehistoric looks, similar to the Archaeopteryx and the fact that the young have claws in the wings, make it a tantalizing. The hisses it makes add to its pre-historic image. It occurs in colonies and is mostly not hunted because its meat is smelly and not good. It has constantly bad breath as its digest is completely leaves which are fermented in the crop. Hoatzin can be seen in many places in the Amazon. Most photogenic perhaps at Amazonia Lodge.

Humboldt Penguin

Humboldt PenguinParacas has been the traditional place where many tourists come in contact with the species for the first time while visiting the sea-lion colonies at Ballestas Islands. In recent years however trips have been arranged to sea-lion colony at Islas Palomino from Callao, Lima, where also the Penguins occur and this is a time effective alternative to Paracas. Recent studies show that Humboldt Penguins are very sensitive to disturbance – much more so – than its close relative Magellanic Penguin that occurs in Patagonia and with colonies that attracts tens of thousands of visitors. Fortunately, there are no colonies in Peru that are accessible to tourists to walk around in. The large colony at Punta San Juan near Nazca is closed to the public.

Other places where one can see Humboldt Penguin include Pucusana and the new San Fernando reserve close to Nazca.

Torrent Duck

Torrent Duck. Photo: Alex DuranA highly dimorphic beautiful duck specialized living its life in streaming water and fascinating to watch. One of the best place to see them is at Aguas Calientes below Machu Picchu. In fact, they can often be seen looking out the window from the train to Machu Picchu.

Waved Albatross

Waved AlbatrossIn spite of being a bird breeding on the Galapagos, practically all individuals of the species will spend considerable time in Peruvian Waters in its lifetime when not breeding. The pelagic birdwatching and whale-watching trips from Lima has made it possible for larger numbers of people to see an albatross at relative ease. Waved Albatross is critically threatened due to high adult mortality in recent years. In spite of being one of the smaller albatrosses, with 2.30m wingspan it is still impressive and a highlight for anyone venturing to sea to see it.

This article was brought to you by Kolibri Expeditions.  Kolibri Expeditions runs tours everywhere in Peru and can take you to all these birds, providing a full-fledged birding holiday or a holiday to culture and nature on a more general level.

Photos by license of creative commons: Ogwen (Condor), Species snob (Chilean Flamingo), Olliethebastard (Hoatzin), and Inca Tern close up by Suneko
Special thanks to Tim Ryan of The faraway, nearby blog, for letting me use his Macaw pictures from Tambopata. All other pictures by Gunnar Engblom and Alex Duran (Rufous-crested Coquette and Torrent Duck). GE´s and AD´s pictures may be used under creative commons license. Link and acknowledge this page. Thanks.
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There is more to a birding tour to Peru than just birds.

For once I am making an exception and blog about a future trip. This particular one includes birding and culture in a great fashion. Also read through the article you shall see that I am giving a fantastic last minute offer. And there are very cheap flights from Miami now. The itinerary is request for the middle of March, combining Northern and Southern Peru and features a pelagic, Chaparri, Machu Picchu and optionally the Amazonian rainforest. What more could you ask for? It is a “best of Peru tour”. The perfect trip to bring your non birding spouse as it gives beautiful scenery as well as many cultural attractions. The trip visits Tumbes, Piura and Chiclayo in the North. Cusco, Machu Pichu and Los Amigos biological Station in the South. Lima acts as a hub with a trip to see condors in Santa Eulalia canyon.

Highlight birding localities of the trip

  • Condor watching in Lima going up the impressive Santa Eulalia Canyon for an overnight stay. Also here Great Inca-Finch and Black-necked Flicker.
  • Birdwatching in Tumbes forest. Semi-dry Spanish moss clad deciduous forest with giant balsa trees with bright green bark and the many species of birds that are endemic for this region.
  • A pelagic tour from the lovely beach resort Punta Sal on which we apart from birds like Galapagos Petrel and Waved Albatross find Humpback Whale and Bottle-nosed and spinner Dolphins.
  • Later we visit Chaparri with the captive breeding program of re-introduced White-winged Guan and Spectacled Bear – as well as spectacular birds such as White-tailed Jay and Black-faced Ibis. Also it is a great place to watch Hummingbirds bathing in a nearby pond.
  • Bosque Pomac that holds the rare Peruvian Plantcutter and Rufous Flycatcher among the target bird species
  • Huacarpay lake in Cusco with many water birds as well as endemic species nearby,  such as Bearded Mountaineer, Rusty-fronted Canastero and Streak-fronted Thornbird
  • Abra Malaga road – cloud forest. With endemics like Marcapata Spinetail, Scaled Metaltail, Red-and-White Antpitta, Cusco Brush-Finch, Parodi’s Hemispingus and spectacular birds such as Sword-billed Hummingbird, Golden-collared Tanager, Grass-Green Tanager, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager.
  • Abra Malaga road – Polylepis forest. With rare species such as Royal Cinclodes, Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Rust-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Tawny Tit-SPinetail, Puna Tapaculo, Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, etc.
  • Abra Malaga road – dry slope. With endemics such as Creamy-crested Spinetail and White-tufted Sunbeam.
  • The cloud forest around Machu Picchu with Cock of the Rock, Torrent Duck, Highland Motmot, White-eared Solitaire, Masked Fruiteater, Inca Wren and Ocellated Piculet.
  • Optional full week at Amigos Research station gives good lodging in the rainforest and over 200 birds and 10 species of monkeys – usually….and maybe more. Electric light and WIFI internet access. Bring your computer to blog from here!

Cultural Highlights.

Did we just loose your spouse??? Call her/him back.

Here are the many cultural highlight and other attractions to the non birder.

  • Guided tour in Lima with visit the excellent Archeology museum. The Incas are only the tip of the iceberg.
  • Lima is the gourmet capital of South America. We shall enjoy some of the fine cuisine while here.
  • Relaxed stay on the beach of Punta Sal.  You may work on the tan if you don’t like boats. Exquisite food.
  • Visit to the Lord of Sipan Museum in Lambayeque.
  • Visit to the pyramids of Tucume and the Tucume museum.
  • Charming Chaparri  Eco Lodge
  • The Inca ruins of Sacsayhuaman
  • The Inca ruins of Pisac
  • The Inca ruins of Ollantaytambo
  • The Inca ruins of Machu Picchu
  • Cusco town – is one main cultural attraction.

Scenery Highlights

Spectacular scenery and wholesome nature experiences

  • Santa Eulalia Cañon
  • Tumbes forest
  • Pacific ocean at Punta Sal
  • Chaparri Communal reserve
  • Machu Picchu
  • Sacred valley
  • Abra Malaga
  • The Amazon rainforest at Amigos research station close to Puerto Maldonado.

Day to day Peru program 18 days.

In the below program, flights, hotels, transport, food, excursions, guiding and entrance fees are included in the price. Airport taxes, drinks and tips are not included.

Price: Last minute offer for couples. 3000$ per person.

March 15. AM. City tour with Archeological museum. PM. Start of Condor program

March 16. Condor program in Santa Eulalia Canyon. Return to Lima and flight to Tumbes.

March 17. Tumbes program. Visit Tumbes forest AM. In afternoon transfer to Punta Sal.

March 18. Punta Sal Pelagic. PM transfer to Piura and birding Mangroves of Vice.

March 19. Visiting the Royal Tomb Museum of Lord of Sipan in Lambayeque.  PM arrive to Chaparri.

March 20. Chaparri AM. Rest of morning at Bosque Pomac for Peruvian Plantcutter. PM at Tucume. Evening flight to Lima.

March 21. Start of Machu Picchu cultural birding program (program C) Early flight to Cusco. City tour. Sacsayhuaman, Cathedral, Coricancha in this order. Lunch. Departure to Pisac. Visit Huacarpay on the way. Overnight in Pisac. Charming town and charming small hotel.

March 22. Early visit to Pisac ruins. Birding walking down to Pisac town. Visit the Pisac market. Continue to Ollantaytambo. Visit the archeological site of Ollantaytambo in the PM. Night in Ollantaytambo at Hostal Muñay Tika.

March 23 Full day to Abra Malaga. We shall take evening train to Aguas Calientes. Night in Hostal Pachacutek.

March 24. Full day at the Machu Picchu ruins and birding in the cloude forest nearby.

March 25. Birding cloud forest around Aguas Calientes. In afternoon train and bus to Cusco. Hostal Emperador Plaza.

March 26. Morning in Cusco. Flight to Maldonado at 11.00 Birding near Puerto Maldonado. Hotel in PM.

March 27-April 1. Birds and monkeys at Amigos Research Center. Click on the link for more info.

Photos: License by Common Creative. Machu Picchu: Brian Snelson
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