Lima

Pelagic birdwatching in Peru

I have arranged pelagics in Lima since 2000. We usually run around 10-12 pelagics per year. Since an accident last year, the port regulations in Lima for commercial activities at sea have become stricter. Even boats with permits to take tourists around, don’t have permit to go further than 16 nmiles (or 10 nmiles from San Lorenzo island), because of lack of specific security equipment for deep sea operations. Since, birding at sea is such a small activity per se, the boat owners we have used in the past are not very interested in investing.

Nevertheless, during the cold water season (June-August),we have had great success thus far this year with several of the best species seen with the limited range, but in the long run the only viable option for us is to get our own boat. During the summer months it will be essential to go out further at sea for the good birds.  Having our boat would ensure flexibility as well as always collecting data for research.

Naturally, twelve trips per year will not be enough to make it economically feasable, so we shall compliment with whalewatching, which is very good in Lima, especially for little known species and forms (see this recent whale-watching blogpost). Nevertheless, we shall be needing some sort of guarantee that there would be enough participants. And this is where you come in.

How? You could become our sponsor with a payback that vastly exceeds your modest investment. A special offer which make you eligible to watch seabirds at sea for FREE in Peru for the rest of your life plus many other bonus features.

Hadoram Shirihai, Steve Howell and Peter Harrison make their testimonials below about the importance of continued pelagics from Lima.
Interested? Scroll on. If not, just scroll down a little bit only to see pictures of  the 10 best birds of Lima pelagics. The next 10 will be presented in a future blogpost. Which species are you missing? Have you done a pelagic with us? Which species were your favorites? Do you have pictures to publish here on the blog or on the Kolibri Facebook Page?

The 20 best birds of Lima Pelagics – top 10.

1.Ringed Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma hornbyiRinged Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma hornbyi. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

The Ringed Storm-Petrel or Hornby’s Storm-Petrel as it is also known is perhaps the most wanted of all the seabirds in Lima. It is very difficult to see in coastal waters, although we have struck lucky sometimes on shorter trips. One usually needs to go all the way to the continental shelf some 30 nmiles out. It is a large powerful Storm-Petrel which gets interested in the chum, but usually just makes a few turns and keeps a distance.
No breeding area of the Ringed Storm-Petrel is known. It may well nest inland. Individuals have been found at 3800 meters in the Cordillera Blanca in Ancash department.

Ringed or Hornby's Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma hornbyi. Photo: GUnnar Engblom

2 Markham’s Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma markhamiMarkham's Storm-Petrel Oceanodroma markhami. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Markham’s Storm-Petrel is the other Stormy high on the birders wishlist. It is also a powerful Oceanodroma. Blackish brown in color with a broad and usually quite prominent carpal bar. It often comes to the chum, but seldom as close as for instance White-vented Storm-Petrel below.

It is also usually found in deep water quite a ways out. Having said that we were lucky two see one recently on July 13 on a mini-pelagic to only 15 nmiles.

3. Peruvian Diving Petrel Pelicanoides garnotiiPeruvian Diving-Petrel Pelicanoides garnotii PotoYunco

The Peruvian Diving-Petrel is numerous off San Lorenzo island (the large island you see in front of La Punta, Callao). It is a strange bird looking very much like a little auklet both in appearance, flight and behaviour. It takes off on the water with very rapid wingbeats – or makes a dive to get away from the boat.

4. Waved Albatross Phoebastria irrorataWaved Albatross Phoebastria irrorata. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Although, as you probably know, Waved Albatross principally breeds on Galapagos, you can almost always find this magnifiscent looking albatross in Peruvian Waters. Adults often take sabattical years from breeding and young may stay around the rich peruvian waters longer.   We often see them also on our recent short pelagics.

The Waved Albatross is Critically endangered according to Birdlife International. Main threats seem to be bycatch in fishing procedures and direct hunting by fishermen at sea.  According to one captain on a fishing boat in Northern Peru they “taste good“.

5. Inca Tern Larosterna incaInca Tern Larosterna inca. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

The prettiest tern of the world no doubt, the Inca Tern is easy to see well and one can see them even at the port at close range. It is by no means uncommon, but since it is such a popular and photogenic bird, it just has to be among the top 10 – don’t you agree?

6. Swallow-tailed Gull Creagrus furcatusSwallow-tailed Gull Creagrus furcatus. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Another visitor from the Galapagos that can be seen almost all year around in small numbers. The pattern is like a giant Sabine’s Gull. The immature and the adult in non-breeding adult have a black goggle around the eye that gives it away. The Swallow-tailed Gull is active at night feeding on crusteceans, why we often find groups of birds sitting on the sea.

7. Chatham Albatross Thalassarche eremitaChatham Island Albatross Thalassarche eremita. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

There are now five records from our Lima pelagics of the formerly Critically Endangered Chatham Alabtross. Recently it was downgraded to Vulnarable, but still with a small range only breeding on The Pyramid, a large rock stack in the Chatham Islands, New Zealand, it is a darn good bird to see in Peru. We have seen both adults and young birds. Best time of year to see one in Peru is between May and August.  Sorry about the crappy photo. It is the only one I have got.

8. Northern Giant Petrel Macronected halliNorthern Giant Petel Macroncetes halli. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

The Northern Giant Petrel was according to older literature hypothetical in Peru. It turns out it is actually as regular, or maybe even more regular than the Southern Giant Petrel. We  see all dark immatures with pink-tipped bills yearly and often relatively near the coast. Our records from 2002-2007 are summerized in this paper in Marine Ornitology journal.

9. South Polar Skua Stercorarius maccormickiSouth Polar Skua Stercorarius maccormicki. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

South Polar Skua is less common than Chilean Skua, although through the years we have seen it between April to November. It is slenderer, much darker and with a smaller bill, than Chilena Skua.

10. White-vented Storm-Petrel Oceanites gracilis

Elliot's Storm-Petrel White-vented Storm.Petrel Oceanites gracilis. Photo: Gunnar EngblomWhite-vented Storm-Petrel is the most common Storm-Petrel off the Peruvian coast, yet it is one of my favorites. They are very fragile – a small Storm-Petrel that trips on water. They are always the first tubenoses that come to the chum. Yet, they are not easy to seperate from Wilson’s Storm-Petrel – or the other way around as Wilson’s Storm-Petrel is much rarer. If the diagnostic white belly is not seen, the best feature is the light butterfly-like flight with rapids wingbeats. Wilson’s Storm-Petrel is steadier in flight.

Special offer for pelagic lovers.

Now you know what is awaiting you when you come to Peru and do pelagics with us.  And don’t just take my word for it.

The importance of Lima as a destination for seabirders is evident. See what other pelagic experts have to say.

Steve N. G. Howell, author and tour leader with various book such as Birds of MexicoGulls of the Americas and Petrels, Albatrosses, and Storm-Petrels of North America, in press with Princeton) argues:

Lima is one of the best areas for pelagic birding in the Americas, with access to several species that can’t be seen easily anywhere else. Keeping pelagic trips going here is important both for birders and for gathering data on the seasonal distribution and abundance of numerous species, some of which are globally threatened.

Hadoram Shirihai, photographer and author of various books such as Whales, Dolphins and other Marina Mammals of the World and The complete guide to Antartic Wildlife says:

Lima is a unique seabird pelagic hotspot for me. The pelagic off Lima with Kolibri Expeditions is one of the best that I tested for the work towards the Handbook of the Tubenoses of the World project, and I call to anyone to support Gunnar to continue the good work he has been doing for years.

Also Peter Harrison, pelagic Guru, who will be in Lima on August 9 for either a short pelagic or hopefully a full day pelagic with one of the ships of IMARPE – the Peruvian Sea Institute, which we hope to hire for the day, is supportive of our project:

The continuation of pelagic voyages from Lima is critically important to further our knowledge of seabird biology and distribution along this important avian flyway. I would also add that although I have not been with Gunnar in person, his reputation is well known and he has added much to our knowledge and provided great service for passing ornithologists and birdwatchers over the years. It is perhaps significant that when the author of Seabirds of the World: An Identification Guide wanted a pelagic trip from Lima, Kolibri Expeditions and Gunnar Engblom was the outfitter he contacted.

As mentioned at the beginning of this post, you have the possibility to be able to go on our pelagic birding trips for the rest of your life for free.  We are investing in our own boat.  You can help us by becoming a member in:

Kolibri Expeditions VIP Club

Your contribution is:

500 US$

Seems like a lot of money?  By taking a few trips with us in Peru and elsewhere in South America, as Kolibri VIP you will regain you investment through a series of benefits. You don’t loose, we don’t have to borrow money and a permanent resource for nature lovers is created and puts Peru on the pelagic map. Here are the benefits:

  • One free space on a Lima pelagic once we have the boat that you can book on very short notice. You decide the date and we’ll run the pelagic – Value $175 to $1000  depending on the number of people taking part in the end.
  • One free space on a Lima pelagic/whalewatching trip any day of the year,  booked with minimum 9 months in advance. Value $175 to $1000  depending on the number of people taking part in the end.
  • Perpetually free 1 day pelagic/whalewatching on standby basis – this also applies if we arrange pelagic away from Lima.  Value $175 each time.
  • Perpetually 10% discount on all our tours – discounting the airfares and train tickets.  It will not only apply on Peru tours, but also on our international tours. On a two week tour this discount amounts to between $200-300
    We mostly do birdwatching tours, but we are also arranging standard nature tours and cultural tours.  Our activity is expanding also outside of Peru.
  • Perpetually free Lima day trips as long as there are 2 other paying clients.  Value around $150 per trip.

Read more about the background to this offer on this previous blogpost. It also relates to our environmental, conservation  and social commitment. The Special offer has been up for a while on my blog, but since this specific post directed to pelagic birders was published only today, the offer is extended to December 31, 2011.

Write me to sign up for the program or to ask questions how this can benefit you.

And don’t forget to let me know in the comments below which are your favorite seabirds off Lima? Do you coincide with me?



Top Photo: Waved Albatross. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
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Star-spangled Pelagic

Join the 8000 club for a Lima Pelagic

Hornby's Strom Petrel. Photo Gunnar Engblom

Hornby's or Ringed Storm Petrel. Photo Gunnar Engblom

It is not often I find a reason to write a blog post about a pelagic trip, before it actually happens. But on this trip, there is a reason. Some of the participants on this shine more than the birds we will be seeing. There are several participants who have seen more than 8000 species in the world. There are experienced Peru birders. There is a former Vice minister of Tourism. Some renowned bird illustrators and one famous author and photographer.  Are you intrigued?

Let me make a small presentation of the birding stars that shine brighter than the birds on this pelagic.

  • Hadoram Shirihai. With books such as The Complete Guide to Antarctic Wildlife and  Whales, Dolphins, and Other Marine Mammals of the World Hadoram has earned a place as an authority among seabirders. Additionally, he is now in Peru to do a photographic expedition with Kolibri Expedition in his quest to photograph 7000 species of birds for the book in production with Hans Jörnvall “The photographic guide to the birds of the world”. I interviewed Hadoram in this blogpost regarding the re-discovery of Fiji Petrel.
  • David Beadle is a British Bird Illustrator living in Canada for many years and has illustrated work such as Birds of Chile and Warblers of the Americas.   Currently he is finishing a book on Moths of NE North America and illustrating Birds of Brazil.
  • Eustace Barnes another British bird illustrator who made major contribution to Field Guide to the Birds of Peru and Pigeons and Doves: A Guide to the Pigeons and Doves of the World will also be onboard
  • Barry Walker – owner of Manu Expeditions and the person who has seen most bird species in Peru – close to 1700 species.
  • Hugh Buck -Currently number 3 in the world with a world list of  8523 species.  My guess is that Hugh is after Markham’s Storm-Petrel or Ringed Storm-Petrel.
  • Phil Rostron another Brit in the 8000 club number 4 in the world with 8430 species.
  • Pablo Lopez de Romaña – former Vice Minister of Tourism in Peru

And then there are other well known world birders that you may have met in the field or heard about. Brian Beers, Neal Clarke, Pearl Jordan, JOhn Pennhallurik., Mark Eaton, Lieven de Temmerman and many more.

Oh yes, guess who is guiding? ME! (HELLLLLLPPPP!!!!). Not at all intimidating. I will find some corner to creap into and hide!

We have room for yet a few birders if there is someone keen on joining on Oct 2. We shall do an early start at 5 AM to have some additional time at our chumming spot. Next Pelagic is planned on Oct 4 (full) and on November 13 and November 26. Hope to see you.

Last Pelagic

To wet your appetite what we will see below follows the result from the last pelagic on Sep 25. Here are some of the highlights. I did not fill in the names yet. See if you can ID them?


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Birders who Blog, Tweet and Chirp in Lima.

Birders who Blog, Tweet and Chirp. Photo: Dawn Fine.

Birders meetup in Maine. Now we shall do the same thing in Lima. Photo: Dawn Fine.

Dawn Fine created a group for birders using internet services such as Twitter, Chirptracker, Facebook and birding bloggers. She called it Birders who Blog, Tweet or Chirp  on Facebook. Soon there was a web page and a forum, and while the activity on both sites at times is a bit stale, the most important thing is that there are regularly live meetups arranged . Dawn has the advantage that she is always travelling. She lives in mobile home with her husband Jeff and they travel where the birds and nature are. Dawn blogs practically daily at Dawn’s Bloggy Blog. Every so often she announces that she will be in a place and touts out a new meeting with friends she knows from the social media interface under the Birders who Blog, Tweet and Chirp. These meetings have been very successful and lots of fun. Not only putting face to a name, but also educational  as the excursion members  have different experiences and knowledge and together it is a huge knowledge tank. Furthermore the idea of meeting up for real is a sound action against the critics who argue that friendship within Social Media is shallow, and that real friends can’t be made on the internet. It does not have to be birding all the time. Sharon Stietler aka Birdchick regularly arranges “birds and beer ” – a bit of afternoon birding and then off to the pub for a pint (or two!).

Social Media Meetups were not created by birders though. With the popularity of Twitter, tweetups have become a fashionable word. Regularly tech geeks or bloggers meet up. The gurus (who in a way are competing for the same crowd) are making events together on regular basis (and most often charge for them) and they are well attended, but for birders this is an interesting way to get to know other birders locally and those that happen to pass through.

So for the first time I call for a  meetup/tweetup in the Birders who blog, tweet and chirp spirit in Lima, Peru on Saturday May 29. I was thinking of  two parts for a program.

07.30-9.00. Parque Ramon Castilla in La Aurora, Miraflores.

09.30-12.30. Pantanos de Villa.

Everyone is welcome, you don’t have to be connected on  Facebook or Twitter with me.  Spread the word with your contacts on the internet. Also use newer services such as Google Buzz and Four Square, and mailing lists as well to reach more people. I’d be interested to know how many people there are in Lima who like birds?

There is no cost involved except for entrance fee at Pantanos de Villa. I can offer a free ride for some people to Pantanos de Villa (first come-first served), as well as coordinate rides for those who are without a vehicle.

Enter your intention to participate in the comment section below and if you have any questions.  The meetup will be bilingual, although Spanish will be spoken more of course.  There will be a Spanish version of this blogpost on the Incaspiza Blog.

Oh, one more thing… if you do use social media, please put your user name on a large sticker on your chest, so you can be identified. You will most likely be known only by your user name, but not your face, so it is a good  idea to let people know who you are. Social events such as this may also give unexpected business opportunities, although this is not the prime reason for the event. In any case don’t forget your business cards.

See you next Saturday May 29, 2010. I hope to do my next tweet up, where-ever I will be for a short holiday in June,  the following in Rio de Janeiro around July 14 or 15 (Hope to run Rio de Janeiro Marathon on July 18) and in Rutland, UK for the British BirdFair in August. At least once a month, I shall call out for a tweet-up. You can obviously do the same with your followers and Facebook Friends whereever you are. You shall be spreading the birding gospel. And we all know: “More birders =>More eco-tourism =>More bird Conservation”. This will be fun!

If we can’t come to Lima on this occasion here is a short resumè where I will be during 2010. See ya!

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So what is this then?

Possible Gray-headed Albatross. Photo Gunnar Engblom

Yesterday, we made an excellent pelagic from Lima. We thought we recorded three species of Albatross, but after reviewing some photos we discovered that two of the called Salvin’s Albatross were in fact Chatham Island Albatross. This is only the second third confirmed record from our Lima pelagics. Here are some photos on our Facebook page.

But what follows are four photos of an individual on the water that I had ID:ed tentatively as Black-browed as default, but I wonder if it could in fact be a Gray-headed Albatross. There has been cautionary notes about ID:ing Gray-headed Alabtross in tropical waters. Alvaro Jaramillo made a note about this fact in the Neotropical Birding article about the birds of the Humboldt Current. The species has been taken off the SACC approved Peru list, due to lack of tangible evidence.

On some of the earlier pelagic expeditions I did from 1998-2002, there are sight records put down as Grey-headed Albatross, but without photographic records and no detailed notes, it is impossible to give any verification of these records. I was not a very experienced seabirder then.

So humbly I present four photos that at least to me indicate some signs of  being a juvenile Gray-headed Albatross turning into immature plumage.

  • Smudgy gray head
  • very dark bill
  • on-start to collar
  • large black eyepatch
  • almost all black underwing

UPDATE: Turns out it was Black-browed Albatross after all. See comments below.

Possible Gray-headed Albatross. Photo Gunnar Engblom

Possible Gray-headed Albatross. Photo Gunnar Engblom

Possible Gray-headed Albatross. Photo Gunnar Engblom

Black-browed Albatross after all

I am very thankful for the comments supplied by Alvaro Jaramillo, Brian Patteson and Chris Robertson for the kind comments they have given.  Truth is that the literature is quite misleading when it comes to identify immature and juvenile Gray-headed Albatross and this is probably the reason why there are so many sight records without proper documentation.

Chris Robertson: You have a juvenile-sub adult Black browed albatross (Thalassarche melanophrys). The culmen and bill plates are definitive as are the eyebrow and neck collar.

Alvaro Jaramillo (Field Guides): This is a young Black-browed. Grey-headed will be much darker headed, with a restricted white throat and cheek area that stands out. They have all dark bills, not the bicolored darker tipped look of young Black-brows. Here is a photo of the northernmost confirmed record we have yet from Chile (Valparaiso).

Gray-headed Albatross juv. Valparaiso. Photo: Alvaro JaramilloGray-headed Albatross juv in flight. Photo: Alvaro Jaramillo

Brian Patteson: In these albatrosses, the bills start dark and lighten up, so juvies should have the darkest bills of all.  And when it comes to books about seabirds, they aren’t always right- even the new ones.  All of the young Gray-headeds I have seen had much darker heads.  Anyhow, here is one in a photo from Drake Pasage.

Gray-headed Albatross in flight. Drake Passage. Photo Brian Patteson.

Thanks Brian, Alvaro and Chris for comments and photos. The have made me little wiser.

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Peruvian Thick-knee. Photo: Tor-Egil Høgsås. Thanks for use!

Peruvian Thick-knee. Photo: Tor-Egil Høgsås. Thanks for use!

The other day I went driving the Pacific Lima circle  road aka la Costanera. Next to the Repsol station there is a  open dirt area, which often has held a group of Peruvian Thickknees the last couple of weeks. This day was no exception, so I thought I’d show them to Luciana. In spite of still not using binoculares Luciana 2 years 9 months, has ammassed 43 species since the start earlier this year.  The thickknee she knows by the local onamatopoic name Huerequeque.

Here is the proof, that she saw it!!

Luciana birdwatching Thickknee IMG00193-20091019-1706

The site is a good one for anyone having to travel between the airport and Miraflores. It is the only gas-station on the Costanera.

Thanks to Tor-Egil Høgsås for use of his Peruvian Thickknee picture. Check out Tor Egils bird photo blog.

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South American Tern in summer plumage in the winter!


In 2005 on a pelagic in July from Lima a dark gray bellied breeding plumage Sterna Tern was seen that was tentatively identified as Antarctic Tern, which would be a first for Peru. This one looks quite like the one we saw then, though I recall the bill was shorter than this. The posterior discussion on Birding Peru Yahoo-group confirmed this bird as South American Tern.



Sooty Shearwater identification


Short-tailed Shearwater?
Unfortunately not. Scrutinizing the pictures and with comments from Birding Peru yahoo group it is noted that the dark black wedge from the “arm-pit” is a good field mark for Sooty Shearwater.

Sooty Shearwater with one Pink-footed Shearwater in the center.

Northern Giant Petrel new species for Peru

Northern Giant Petrel was recorded for the first time in Peru in 2002 on a Kolibri Expeditions pelagic. It is now a regular on our pelagics of July to September. This is the first time we found a bird that is not completely brown. Can this one be aged?



Here it is with a juvenile.

Buller’s Albatross

Buller’s Albatross I only found for the first time in July 2006. This year it has been seen on a number of pelagics in July-September. And even adults and subadults (such as this photo).

Chilean and South Polar Skua in a fight. Great Show

.

South Polar Skua is quite regular on our pelagics during May-September

Join us on next full day pelagic Nov 17…or on our regular daily whale-watching excursion between November to March.

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There are three Wilson‘s concealed in the left bottom corner among all the White-vented Storm-Petrels (Elliot’s)

Now they are in the center

One Wilson upper left turning

and turning a little bit more. Note that the Whitevented SP in the top center had yellow webs.


I hope someone can forward some discussion on the molt in Wilson‘s and Whitevented SP.


Last also a Salvin‘s Albatross seen quite well on this occation. Also in a bit of molt..

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Cetaceans and seabirds

Done a few more trips to search for Cetaceans and seabirds the last two months.

On January 19 a full day at sea gave many fantastic observations of Dolphins and one whale.
Possible Sei Whale Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
This may be a Sei whale that has lost its dorsal fin.

Dusky Dolphin Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
Dusky Dolphins come close to the boat.

Common Dolphin Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
Common Dolphins were also often seen on this full day trip.

On February 18 we had great observations of a Bryde’s/Sei Whale. Bryde's Whale Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Sei and Bryde’s whale are very similar in appearance. One needs to see the head to be able to separate them. However, since Bryde’s is the most likely this time of year

On February 23 we saw large numbers of Dusky Dolphins. The Inca Terns and Peruvian Boobies follow the moving schools of hunting dolphins is an good way to detect dolphin activity.

Dusky Dolphin Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Peruvian Booby and Dusky Dolphin Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Dusky Dolphin Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
Also, far in the distance we saw a immense blow. This was most certainly a Blue Whale. Unfortunately, we had not time to follow up this time and the whale itself was not seen.
Robert Flood – a dedicated seabird watcher had particularily chartered the boat for the trip on February 23. The purpose of the day was to study Storm-Petrels. We had prepared a “chum” consisting of fish bones, heads and intestines, oil and pop-corn. Storm-Petrels have sense of smell and not before long we saw the first Markham’s Storm Petrels.
Black Storm Petrel, Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
More majestic were the impressive Waved Albatroses also attracted by the chum.
Waved Albatross Pelagic Lima. Photo: Gunnar Engblom
The Waved Albatross is visiting from Galapagos. It is an almost certain sight all year around.
Next whale/dolphin watching trip is planned for March 3 and April 1. Contact Gunnar at kolibriexp@gmail.com or 273 72 46.
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