One morning Unchog clean-up with Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager

Wednesday Jan 7, 2009.
Its not every birding day on our itinerary that has a 2.30 AM start, but to visit Unchog in just one day and have decent go at the Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager and the Rufous-browed Hemispingus in the rainy season and not to have to camp, does require extreme measures.

We had plenty of time on our hands to get to the start of the trail beyond the small village of Cochabamba and it turned out we needed all that time, due to delays in the morning and sliding off the track with one wheel and pushing the van back up again.  The road up to Unchog can be very slippery. Fortunately, the locals had done good maintenance and we got to our final destination – the end of the road – around 5.15 and it was still dark. Julio prepared breakfast and we had a good bowl of fruit salad, yogurt and granola, as well as freshly French pressed coffee from Alto Mayo in Northern Peru, before we started walking.  We had a gentle 50 meter rise, and then a 300m drop to get into prime habitat. On the way we saw Plenge’s Thistletail, and Many-striped Canastero. Sedge Wrens and Neblina Tapaculo were singing.
We reached “Hemispingus bend” just as a flock was forming with Pearled Treerunner, White-throated Tyrannulet, Citrine Warbler and the endemic Pardusco (one of the Carpish endemics), and almost immediately Andy Kratter stuttered,

Rufous-browed Hemispingus. Photo: Andy Kratter

“Ttheerre it is. The, the , the Hemispingus” as I was pointing out a beautiful Golden-collared Tanager. “Rufous-browed Hemispingus” he yelled to the others some 20-30 meters behind us. Everyone got brilliant views and Andy even got some pictures. This is a bird many groups often miss. Excellent start!
Reyes had continued down the trail to be on the lookout for GBMT. We soon caught up and stood looking out over a stunning forest and the sun playing with the canopy as the forest was warming up. We had probably not stood there for more than 20 minutes, when I saw some movement in a tree only some 20 meters in front of me. Now it was my time to stutter. Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager. Everyone except Per Lundberg stood close and had great views. Per came rushing in from 50 meters down the trail and eventually also got good views.

It was only 8.15 and we had already seen the two most wanted birds on the trip.

Rufous-browed Hemispingus. Photo: Andy Kratter

The rest of the morning produced relatively few new birds. Some heard included Undulated Antpitta,  Obscure Rufous Antpitta (obscura form) and Tchudi’s Tapaculo. One of my best birds was a cooperative White-browed Spinetail. A bird I have seen only in Southern Ecuador and now a Peru tick!

We even managed to get some exercise. The 300m uphill got the heart beating. Julio had already prepared lunch. Spaguetti bolognaise. Uneventful, trip back to Huanuco and we continued to Junin via a stop en route for Brown-backed Inca-Finch, which was seen very well. Additionally, Black-crested Tit-Tyrant was seen briefly by myself.
In Junin at 4100m we stayed at a basic hotel and went out for a meal. In spite of the restaurant looking modest, the food was very tasty. I had trout.

English Birdnames

When birding with prominent North American ornithologists, who mostly use the scientific names as first choice, English bird names soon become a great topic for discussion. If “collecting” get lots of opinions (see the last posting) from birders and ornithologists alike, English birdnames give even more opinions. “Stability” is used as the number one argument in many cases favoring not to change a name, but in other cases “improvements” are necessary because the current name is “no good”. In many cases it gets very subjective. And to whom shall we (the public, the birders and the rest of the ornithologists) give mandate, to select the best set of names. No matter who does the job, there will always be discontent.
In recent years there has been some attempts to synchronize. International Ornithology Congress (IOC) has pointed a commission to standardize English bird names. This lead to the publication of “Birds of the World. Recommended English names” in 2006 by Frank Gil and Minturn Wright. The full list constantly revised and updated as new species are described or split can be found on  https://www.worldbirdnames.org/. IOC takes on English birdnames – this got be the right course to take. Not surprisingly, not all want to accept the international standardization. Notably, AOU with the two committees North American Checklist Committee (NACC) and South American Checklist Committee (SACC), has their own set of rules and many is some cases have different English names than those suggested by IOC. NACC took a vote to adopt IOC:s suggested changes of names of North American birds, but since the list also included spelling and hyphenation differences, all the changes were turned down in bulk.

The most eye-catching or (ear-catching) hard to swallow names and to take to tounge are the Myioborus White/Redstarts.  SACC insists on Redstart, while IOC favors Whitestart. “Start” is a germanic word meaning tail (also in old English). Anyone can see that the Myioborus have no red in its tail what so ever. It is the Painted Redstart, that occur in almost every North American birdbook with this same name, that makes so difficult for the Americans to accept the logical name-change. This has become a personal rant issue of mine – so beware before you klick on the link to put down your vote for your preference. Whitestart or Redstart?. Don’t take it too serious. It is just for fun! SACC is unjustly picked on. SACC has put forward Neotropical Ornithology light years by putting down a baseline for taxonomy and un-doubted distribution. However, maybe putting English names could be best appointed to the IOC committee especially formed for this purpose.
Andy Kratter is on the North American Checklist committee and was the only one who favored whitestart when NACC took a vote on whitestart/redstart. Andy, you are a hero!

There are a few other interesting cases. Northern Chestnut-tailed Antbird was described as such by the Islers and Whitney and favored by IOC, but SACC changed it to Zimmer’s Antbird. Why? Because a dominant number of the members of SACC do not like compound name with long geographic epitets. But geography can acutally be much more informative than combination of color and body parts of cryptic species with hardly no such difference or naming the bird after a person. In spite of SACCs decission I don’t think anyone has yet wanted to change the names of Northern/Southern Rough-winged Swallow or Northern/Southern Beardless Tyrannulet. Want to vote on this as well?

Another favorite case of mine is Lulu’s/Johnson’s Tody-Tyrant. In spite of normally favoring stability, SACC renamed this cute bird endemic to Peru, that already had a name both in the formal description as well as the published Birds of Peru by Clements and Shany. Surely Lulu is more catchy than Johnson. Vote here!

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I and the Bird #91


 

I and the Bird #91

A short break in the trip report from Carpish, to let you all know that I and the Bird # 91 just was the released. I have the great pleasure to have my post on Amarakaeri included here. It is Tim Ryan of From the Faraway, Nearby that host this issue. Tim’s blog is always good reading. Scroll down his blog and you`ll find a piece on Tambopata, Peru.

So what is “I and the Bird”?
It’s a Birding Blog Digest for the lazy. If you don’t have time to follow and read a whole bunch of birding blogs, the “I and the Bird” bi-weekly carnival keeps you well informed. It is really not to be missed, because it keeps you updated. It is also a great way for bird bloggers to get more readers.  Check out all about “I and the Bird” here.

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Birding Carpish Tunnel

Since we had such a late night the previous night, we opted to go to Carpish as it is one hour drive rather than going to Unchog which is 3 hours from Huanuco. It gave us some more sleep. Thus, start at 4.30. Certainly, still felt toooooo early. Most of us were birding with closed eyes on our way to Carpish, as it was still dark anyway.

Carpish was covered in mist and bristling rain, nevertheless we went up the track by the tunnel. And we started seeing birds: Taczanowski’s (Slaty) Brush-Finch (genetically isolated form), Grass-green Tanager, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Plush-cap Finch, Black-and-White Becard, Tschudi’s Tapaculo (seen well after playback), Citrine Warbler, Blue-capped Tanager etc. Particularly the Becard was a nice, because it is not a bird I see often, I believe is my first record for Carpish.

Birdwatching along the Paty Trail.

Bomaraea sp? at the Tunnel. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

Hopping into the van again, we drove down to km51, where Doña Inez and Don Cleto lives, just next to the start of the Paty Trail. While Julio was fixing breakfast, we found some birds in a flock moving through such as Pearled Treerunner, Lachrymose Mountain-Tanager, Capped Conebill, White-tailed Tyrannulet and Streaked Tuftedcheek. Additionally we heard a Green-and-Black Fruiteater.

After our freshly brewed coffee and Julio’s special hot sandwiches with cheese and ham, we headed down the Paty trail. Just as we commenced, Aratinga-like calls were heard. I recognized that rolling drawn-out call of Golden-plumed Parakeet. A group of five. A lifer for all in our party and a very rare parrot. Luckily we got some more observations later furhter down the trail.

The mist was too dense to be able to do any digiscoping, so I have no bird ph in pootos to show you. Here are a few shots from the trail and some flowers in bloom.
More birds were added: Crimson-backed Woodpecker, Montane Woodcreeper, Long-tailed Antbird, Citrine Warbler, Russet-crowned Warbler, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, Rufous Spinetail, Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet, Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher and Flame-faced Tanager. There were also Plum-crowned (Speckle-faced) Parrots and Scaly-naped Parrots flying over, but they were hard to get looks at in the mist.
Per and Lena were happy to have spotted Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan. In fact it was Piero, Julio’s son that discovered it. Scott had a fleeting glimpse of a Masked Saltator in the bamboo on the lower part of the trail.

The Paty trail is somewhat legendary to birders in Peru. This trail was birded by Ted Parker, and he wrote an article together with John O’Neill about the birds along the trail and elsewhere in the region, that was published in Birding in 1976 (Birding (3), pp 205-216.) and the trail is still excellent. It goes from 2500m down to 1700m, but usually we just bird untill 2200m.

Community based Conservation and eco-tourism.

At the bottom is the community Ñaupamarca.  Across from the village school there is a good lek of Cock-of-the-Rock and at night the Lyre-tailed Nightjars display overhead. Rarely seen Tanagers such as Blue-browed Tanager, Golden-collared Honeycreeper and Deep-blue Flowerpiercer are also frequently seen here, so it is a shame that relatively few groups do all the way. It is my hope that in a near future it shall be possible to make programs that combine Paty trail with a trail that goes from Ñaupamarca to up to Unchog (stay tuned for tomorrow’s account). If the community claims the Carpish area as a communal reserve, they can then solicit international funding to implement a eco-trekking route and construction of some accomodation at Ñaupamarca. It would certainly become an asset for our birding trips.

New School project. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

New School project. Photo: Gunnar Engblom

The school being built at the start of the Paty Trail will have a an area where tourist can stay, and hopefully in a near future there will also be some sort of lodging at Unchog itself. They mayor of Carpish, Juan Figueredo, recently joined Kolibri Expeditions on a trip to Mindo, Ecuador, together with 2 other farmers from Carpish, in order to see how cloud forests can become a important source for eco-tourism. Originally, we meant only to bring people from Satipo road, but in the end, after meeting with the mayor and him being so enthusiastic regarding conservation, we figured we ought to bring some people from Carpish as well. You can read about this project here, but I will also soon present a updated blog, regarding the trip. That the mayor is committed is certain. Read his opening speech  (in Spanish) at the Peruvian Congress of Ornithology, which was held just as the trip to Mindo finished.

After lunch, we walked up the road and added Andean Guan and Hooded Mountain-Tanager. Both Chestnut and Bay Antpitta were heard, but could not be lured into view.
Julio picked us up, and we drove to the dry side of the tunnel towards Huanuco to search for good Brown-flanked Tanager habitat. The bird was located in some 10 minutes after the stop and we got decent views. Also the small hummingbird Mountain Velvetbreast here.

Birding the dry slope of Carpish mountains.

Continuing to Huanoco we made a short stop along the road in dry habitat adding Peruvian Pygmy-Owl, Peruvian Meadowlark, White-bellied Hummingbird and Fasciated Wren, but alas not Chestnut-backed Inca-Finch, which was one of the birds that Scott really wanted to see, since he is setting up a project together with one of his students to study the Inca-Finches of Peru.
Back in Huanuco, I managed to squeeze in a run before dinner.

A confirmed trip to Satipo road and Carpish is set for May 19. There is also a short trip to Carpish that we run on request.

Controversial topic being discussed. Scientific Collecting of birds.

We had interesting discussions about collecting. A couple of weeks ago, there was a post on the Peruvian listserver Incaspiza that I manage about a student that studies birds present in tombs from the Sican culture at Tucume, Batan Grande and Sican. He wanted to set up a bird collection for reference to archeology research. I won’t get into details, as it became a debate that was somewhat heated. If you ever seen any such debate in the past, you know what I mean. However, as pro-collecting advocate in general (as long as the ethics follows rigurous protocoll), I was very surprised to learn that:

a: How come this field (archeology and birds) has not been developed yet by Museo de Historia Natural de Javier Prado, Universidad de San Marcos, that has the largest collection of birds in Peru.
b: There is no bone/skeleton collection in Peru as yet!

This was the background to the conversation and discussions the birding party from Florida University of Gainesville and University of Lund, Sweden. All in this party see the value of continued collecting to learn more about various aspects of ornithology. As the discussion went on we all agreed that not always do scientific collecting follow high standards of ethics discussed in a series excellent papers.

These are essential starting points to understand the pros about collecting and to kill some myths.

The importance of continued collecting of bird specimens to ornithology and birds conservation” J. V. Remsen, JR Bird Conservation Internacional 5(1995):145-180.

The importance of avian collections and the need for continued collecting” Winker, Kevin et al. The Loon 63(1991): 283-264

“Opinion. Collecting and Conservation: cause and effect.” Collar, N. J. Bird Conserv. Internatn: 10 (2000): 1-15

However, it is necessary to minimize the clashes with the birdwatching community, if museums want to count on some understanding from the same. The argument that the collecting is not hurting the overall population will only become valid when there is no conflict of interest. Scientific collecting can not count on support if insisting in collecting in the same areas as the birdwatchers frequent or if they take specimens of critically threatened or endangered birds, when it isn’t necessary. Birdwatchers will not understand any reasoning behind taking a series 15 threatened petrels of the same species off the North American coast or the reasoning behind having to have voucher specimens for every species in Peru, especially if it is a threatened species, when a photograph or a recording suffice for a publication.

A sound starting point for collecting ethics would be the following guidelines.

  • Every bird colleted is a sacrifice for a better understanding of the birds. The question should always be asked if it is necessary to collect in all situations. Are there alternative methods that can answer the questions raised? It is important that when a bird is sacrificed that all aspects of collecting are covered.
  • The whole bird should be used not only the specimen skin. Thus stomach content, tissue, skeleton, etc should be colleted. If the collecting expeditions are too centered on getting skins, it will soon be numbers rather than quality that matters.
  • Avoid collecting threatened species.
  • Avoid collecting near the same trails as birders frequent.

Feel free to comment. Starting point. How to build bridges between birdwatchers and professional ornithologists?

Gunnar Engblom
Kolibri Expedition

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Life is short. Bird faster! 4 days for Unchog.

Diademed Sandpiper Plover Phegornis mitchellii at Milloc Bog, Lima

This was a crazy idea from the start. Only 4 days available to do Unchog and Carpish, including the overland journey from Lima to get there.

Scott Robinson who comissioned the trip had a few simple directions.

  • See the forest structure for forthcoming field studies for students at Florida University,
  • See Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager and Junin Grebe
  • Find habitat for inca-finches for future study.

I shall give a day to day account. With a delivery per day. In each, apart from the birding there shall be a topic that has come up during our birding and is worth expanding further. Some topics may be a bit controversial.  While on listservs one needs to be following rules and some topics are taboo on the blog there are no rules. Best to follow https://www.kolibriexpeditions.com/birdingperu/blog/

Day 1. Jan 5, 2009. Lima-Ticlio-Quichas – Huanuco.

We had a great day birding our way to Huanuco with Scott Robinson, Bob Holt, Andy Kratter, Per Lundberg and his wife Lena. Julio had brought his 13 years old son Piero on the trip. Possibly Piero will become a future birdguide.

We decided to make a straight journey with no detours simply because there was no time. Best to do some short stops on the way.

Between Ricardo Palma and Matucana we stopped for breakfast at some habitat with cacti and small bushes, that looked as it could be good for Great Inca-Finch. Scott needed to check habitat for a student of his that shall study Inca-Finches in Peru.

It did not take long to see a pair. This was great news to me, cause I had no particular spot for the species prior to this observation. Other birds see were: Band-tailed Sierra Finch, Band-tailed Seedeater, Canyon Canastero, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Andean Swift, Southern Yellow Grossbeak, Scrub Blackbird.

We had considered to do a short stop at Ticlio pass, but it was snowing so we headed.on. A roadside stop gave nothing.

Passing the most contaminated town in South America- La Oroya, we made a short stop by a stream trying to see White-winged Cinclodes. We possibly saw some flying away. But nothing else.

We decided to head straight to the Polylepis woodland in Quichas, beyond Junin Lake (Andean Gull and Puna Ibis) and Cerro del Pasco.

The activitywas slow but between us we saw Stipe-headed Antpitta, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Black Siskin, Andean Flicker, Brown-bellied Swallow, occipitalis race of Rufous-naped Grond-Tyrant.

Arival in Huanuco at 20.30.

Scott Robinson’s Big Day with Ted Parker at Cocha Cashu, Manu, Peru. 331 species.

Scott told me a bit about the famous record. By 11 AM they had already 3oo species. And there was not accessible terra firme at that time. Scott argues, that with a trail on the other side of the river through terra firme forest it should be possible to set the record at 360 species. And with a helicopter 400+ speies should be possible.

I think one of the best places to break the record would be Los Amigos research station. It has an amazing number of closeby habitats. Our guide Alex Duran has recorded some 560 species there in only 18 days of birding.

UPDATE: Alex Duran, Antonio Coral and myself are out to set a new world record at Amigos in September 2010. You can actually join us – for a Amazonon Rain Forest Birding Work Shop wtih the chance of setting a persona Big Day record of over 300 species. Check the itinerary  here.

The next posts from this Carpish trip can be  found below.

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Peru’s latest addition to the bird list. Northern Hawk Owl.

Northern Hawk Owl. Peru, NY. Photo. Corey Finger

Northern Hawk Owl. Peru, NY. Photo. Corey Finger

Northern Hawk Owl Peru, NY Dec 2008. Photo: Corey Finger

Northern Hawk Owl Peru, NY Dec 2008. Photo: Corey Finger

This bird has been seen regularly in Peru, since Dec 14 and has made birders from the US pilgrimage to see it. Few Peruvians have seen it though. It is Peru, New York that is being mentioned, but I thought I just had to write about it on a birding blog regarding Peru in South America.

Why? Well, I think it is a good opportunity, alas a bit late , to make birders in New York state aware of their “tocayo” (peruvian spanish for someone who shares the same name-namesake) – the land of the Incas and the land of the birds, here in the South. And also a opportunity for Peruvian birdwatchers to learn about birding in New York State.
Take a deep plunge into the blog of Corey Finger at www.10.000birds.com and his journey to see this bird, and the exemplary way to include the whole family in this endeavor.  I owe to Corey to let me borrow his photos for this blog. Thanks!
By the way, 1000 birds is one of the most popular birding blogs in the world. It is well worth to check out on its own accord. Furthermore, the owners Corey, Mike and Charlie, organize a birdwatching blog carnival called “I and bird”, where blog articles about wild birds are selected on a bimonthly basis.  I and the bird #90 is just to be released. More great pictures of the same Northern Hawk Owl can be found on Jeff Nadler’s web-site.  Mouth-watering describes the pictures well. Wow!

I had the title for this blog clear for quite some time, but I needed a way to relate it a bit more to Peru in South America. I had to fish for some info. I would not really call it research or bibliography search, as I did what most people do when they need information nowadays. A google search! Two keywords! Owl and Peru. Corey’s blog scored third place, but most of the other positions were about the awe-inspiring re-discovered and mythical long-whiskered Owlet from Abra Patricia, that now actually can be seen a few 100 meters from the new comfortable lodge at Abra Patricia, The Owlet Lodge. This was the connection needed to round up this blog and take you to the REAL Peru! (Sorry, New York upstaters…you will just have to come down here to prove me wrong, if you don’t believe.)

Long-whiskered Owlet. Photo: David Gaele ECOAN/ABC

Long-whiskered Owlet. Photo: David Gaele ECOAN/ABC

OK, we must be fair, I said the Owlet CAN be seen, but IN REALITY most groups have had to content to hear it, because of the dense vegetation.  However, after recent conversations with David Guevara and Constantino Aucca of ECOAN, the Peruvian NGO that runs the lodge, trails are being put in and there are plans for a platform that in the future shall facilitate observations with minimum impact on the bird.  With only 200 visitors in 2008, the very comfortable lodge could definitely take more visitors, and if managed well, there is no reason why this resource – the owlet – could become a sustainable goldmine to ECOAN’s conservation work.

The Owlet is one of the least known Owls in the world, and had not been seen in the wild until Juvenal Ccahuana  and David Geale in 2007 stumbled upon one on a day perch by a muddy slippery trail a couple of hours walk from the main road.

Much of the forest around the lodge has been bought by ECOAN with funding raised by ABC (American Bird Conservancy). It is a beautiful area with many regionally endemic species such as Ochre-fronted Antpitta, Lulu’s Tody-Tyrant, Royal Sunangel, Bar-winged Wood-wren. Not far away, around 1h drive to Pomacochas, one finds the most stunning of all hummingbirds – the Marvelous Spatuletail. The lodge now has hummingbird feeders and bird tables and provides a great asset for all visiting birders. Surely Abra Patricia Long-whiskered Owlet Lodge and the other sites on the North Peru birding route, is a must for the serious birder.  What is more, the lodge provides excelent shelter in luxury, in one of the wettest areas in Peru, where the die-hard birders used to have to camp out. In effect in means that the route is open to visitos all year around. You shall always expect rain and clouds at Abra Patricia, the rainiest months being December and January. But this should not hold you off.  SInce you have road access to drive up and down the road with good birding habitat between 800-2500m, one can almost always drive away from the rain and fog in less than 30 minutes ascending or descending along the road. That said, plan to have ample time in the Abra Patricia areas, because it is truly one of the best birding places on earth.
I made a very early report on this area in 1998 that can be found on Worldtwitch if anyone is interested. It pleases me very much to see that the area is now finally starting to get attention. More attention from birders is needed. The challanges for conservationists lies further down the road in the Afluentes area, where a whole village practically has mushroomed up within the protected Alto Mayo reserve since 1998. Conservation, environmental education, sustainable agriculture and forestry and ecotourism must be implemented urgently here. The birders can lead the way.

What was that? What about our birding trips? I thought you’d never ask! Of course Kolibri Expeditions runs trips there. Here are three sample programs.

Questions? Either put down a comment here or write me a line at kolibriexp@gmail.com

Long-whiskered Owlet Xenoglaux loweryi. Photo: ECOAN/ABC

Long-whiskered Owlet Xenoglaux loweryi. Photo: ECOAN/ABC

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This blog was originally posted on Bird Forum, Wednesday 6th August 2008, but I thought I lift it in to this blog as well and make some updates. I am still working on my next orignal blogpost.

Amaraka…. Que? – You know, the communal reserve next to Manu in Peru!

This year Kolibri Expeditions started working with the communities of the Amarakaeri Communal Reserve lying just next door to Manu. Going down the Alto Madre de Dios river Manu is to the left and Amarakaeri reserve to the right.
The birding has been just fantastic with birds like Black-faced Cotinga, Rufous-headed Woodpecker and Peruvian Recurvebill as regulars. They have four quite good lodges along the regular Manu route donated by the world bank and USAID and in spite of mostly having shared bath, they are very well built and have all the potential in world to become included in the standard route for birders in the future. BUT they need a partner and this is where Kolibri Expeditions comes in. In 2007 they had only 20 clients visiting the lodges – so they also understand that they need to find a new strategy to get more visitors to their lodges.. Still in 2008 their lodges have mainly remained empty. There are good reasons why birding may be the best way to market this new eco-destination.

1. It should be relatively easy to get volunteers to make complete birdlists and help get the communities focused on providing the essentials for birders, which comes down more to good trails than shower curtains. Volunteer’s please write me (kolibriexp@gmail.com).

2. Birders are less likely to make a fuss about small organizational screw-ups as long as the birds are seen. You can probably appreciate the difficulties in running a lodge set-up where there are no roads, no telephone and no internet! Hard core birders would give the communities more time to sort out the operation without being classified as inferior service and loose out on the market even before they have gotten seriously started. As long as the birders see the birds, they will be mostly happy.

3. Many birders (but certainly not all) would like to spend less money birding in Manu, which has become very expensive in recent years – and thus the community budget alternative is an option. In light of the present economic crises, an inexpensive alternative is always welcome.

4. In spite of this, the community make more money on birders than on back-packers. The back-packers will choose other more streamlined budget operators most of the time, and the only way the community can compete in trying to catch the backpacker group is to lower the prices. The price are low and in the end there are not many backpackers that will chose an alternative that has not all the experience. Birders pay more.

5. Birders are very good at sharing good (and cheap) birding experiences with their friends and on-line. Thus, very soon could the community alternative in Manu become a winner.

Black-faced Cotinga – not uncommon at Blanco Lodge next to Manu Wildlife Center!! Photo: Gunnar Engblom

It is called Amarakaeri Communal reserve, but it is just nextdoor to Manu Wildlife Center and Blanquillo Lodges.

I know! Who shall remember the name of the reserve? Amara….what…

Amarakaeri ….if the indians would have known about marketing they should have called it Manu Community Reserve. Then people would understand that visiting Amara…whatever it is called …what?…yes Amarakaeri Communal Reserve is basically the same as visiting Manu.

It is the same route going down the Manu road and one ends up in Puerto Maldonado (or turn around back to Cusco – or fly from Boca Manu).

During 2008 Kolibri Expeditions made three trips to using all of the four lodges. In spite of the “expected” logistical problems, the birding result was brilliant. We are looking at ways to minimize logistical problems for 2009.

A short summery of the lodges in the Manu drainage.

Shintuya Lodge at the end of the road is just across from Pantiacolla Lodge. Birding along the road is very good passing very stands of Bamboo that has Ornate and Dot-winged Antwren, Yellow-billed Nunbird and hill forest with Red-billed Tyrannulet, Fine-barred Piculet, Military and Blue-headed Macaw, Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher and Cabani´s Spinetail.

Centro de Medicina Tradicional
has prime floodplain forest just behind the lodge and good flooded bambo/cane forest on the island in front. There is a mammal-lick, but it is not very well developed for visitors as yet, but may become a resource in the future.  Medicine Man/Curandero Matero Iglesias lives here. He performs cleaning rituals for his neighbours and occasional tourists. This is an interesting concept that should be developed as tourism attraction, especially for people staying for longer periods and want to have an insight in traditional medicine. At this point however, it is not very impressive, as the interaction with tourists is mainly an Ayawaska ceremony out of context. It is not really the thing we ought to promote.
WTF, Go-to-Peru-and-get-High-Tours. Awesome!

Birdwise some interesting birds have been found in 2008 such as a nest of Ornate-Hawk-Eagle Black-faced cotinga, Rufous-headed Woodpecker, Ocellated Poorwill, Dusky-cheecked Foliage-gleaner and Semi-collared Puffbird.

Charro Lodge is located on a seasonally flooded island halfway down from the airstrip at Boca Manu and the famous Macaw lick at Blanquillo. This is the best Varzea habitat I have seen in the Manu area. Hopefully, it the future we shall be able to have some sort of kayaking programs here in the boreal winter when the waterlevels are high.  Birding is very rewarding with key species such as Striolated Puffbird, Peruvian Recurvebill, Long-billed and Amazonian form of Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Red-billied Scythbill, Amzonian and Elusive Antpittas, Rufous-fronted Antthrush, White-cheecked Tody-tyrant and more. Furthermore, the varzea specialties such as Varzea Mourner and Plumbeous Antbird are quite common here.

The last Lodge on the route is Blanco Lodge, which is situated between Manu WildLifeCenter and the Blanquillo Macaw lick. It is thus strategically located for visits to Tapir lick, Otter lake and Macaw lick.
The lodge is the most comfortable of the four lodges as it has private bathrooms with showers,

The birds found here and the nearby bamboo trail with a good stable steel tower include Black-faced Cotinga, Sharpbill, Rufous-headed Woodpecker, White-cheecked Tody-Tyrant, Ash-throated Gnateater and Long-billed Woodcreeper.

Bottomline, the birds are there. There are still many logistical implementations that need to be done, but in the meantime the lodges are open for birders that wanting to save some bucks and still have the best birding of their lives. Long-time staying birders can work out volunteer status deals.

Budget Manu birding tour supporting local communities

For more information write me at kolibriexp@mail.com or check Kolibri Expeditions bird tour page for a budget Manu birding holiday. This trip has a mixture of community lodges and more established lodges, in order not to miss out on any speciality of the area. In spite that the birding tour is 15 days, I would recommend to add a few more days for the cloud forest which deserves more time as well as Amigos Research Center at the end, which is a truly spectacular place.

You heard of Amarakaeri here…..don’t you forget that now!

Gunnar Engblom

www.kolibriexpeditions.com
kolibriexp@gmail.com

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Blogging by email and networking.

I just set up a super secret email account from which I shall be able to send posts directly to my new WordPress blog on Kolibri Expeditions web-site. I guess this is part of the web 2.0 revolution…even if I got on this train late. Part of this strategy is to use networking as way to get to both potentially new clients as well as keeping in touch with and in the mind of clients in the past. Facebook is one of the best way to do this. My Facebook account is here, if you want to become my “friend” on facebook. In fact, it is not that necessary that we actually know each other. Facebook is a bit of voyeurism, but oneself decides really how much privacy is suitable to post. Some people use facebook strictly privately, while others use it, as I do, to create a new network with people with similar interest. In my case it is birding and specifically birding in Peru and South America. On facebook I have a bit over 200 “friends”. I think the order of some 400-500 “friends” would create a nice network

Twitter

A few months ago I set up a twitter account and made my 200th posting today and have around 150 people following me. You can follow me too at www.twitter.com/kolibrix. Twitter could be considered micro-blogging. You tell the world what you are doing in 140 characters. Though many will just but daily activities such as “I am drinking coffee”, there are many people who use twitter as a fast means of telling their followers about a new blog post or sharing something interesting they have read.

Gunnar’s previous blogs

A couple of days ago I set up this blog. I have blogged before but usually far between. See some examples here:
https://www.birdingperu.blogspot.com/ (English)
https://www.limasafaris.blogspot.com (Spanish)
https://www.birdingperu.com/blogs/

The present blog

This is however the first blog I do on the company page of Kolibri Expeditions https://www.kolibriexpeditions.com. Rather than having my web-master creating a new blogging tool specifically for my web-page, I decided to use one of the free ones available from www.wordpress.com and house it on our server. The people at the support section of my server provider kindly helped to upload the program. It is very convenient and there are already a lot functions and plug-ins available, The main idea is that the blog will:
1. Direct clients to our main part of the web-page. This way, we’d get more business.
2. Get more traffic period and thus better search engine position. With more traffic google ranks the web-site higher
3. Create new material which also helps to get more traffic as there will be more search engine keywords produced.
4. If I get a lot of readers, some online adds, can actually give some revenues at least to partly pay for the housing costs.

Today’s birding at Pantanos de Villa

Anyway, this blog was actually meant to tell you by sending an email that I have been birding with Eduardo Arrarte -the former Vice Minister of Tourism and his lovely wife Lieser today at Pantanos de Villa in an activity that I arranged open to the public. There were also two cultural tour guides that are learning about birding, and two other guys – one of them only 15 years old – that also ae new to birding. Great to be able to inspire new birders. This should be part of the mission of every birder. Share your knowledge.

Birds seen today included:
Peruvian Thickknee
Peruvian Meadowlark
Black-necked Stilt
Osprey
Great Grebe
Pied-billed Grebe
American Oystercatcher
Franklin’s Gull
Band-tailed Gull
Burrowing Owl
and many more.

Gunnar Engblom.

PS: I hope this works!!
PPS: Well, it didn’t. I had to post it the normal way. I wonder if it was because my secret account was an gmail account?

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This apparantly first appeared on The Beast https://buffalobeast.com/ - Credit where credits due.

This apparantly first appeared on The Beast https://buffalobeast.com/ - Credit where credits due.

It is funny and true. But less funny for Americans and for automobile employed in Detroit and elsewhere. A friend put this on his facebook and then I found it online on Treehugger.com. You’ll find more comments there.

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Why is a Swedish bird tour operator selling binoculars in Peru?

I never thought I was going to sell binoculars, and indeed it is not and will never be my main principal activity. We are after all a birdwatching tour company and our business is guiding birders in Peru and elsewhere in South America. So how did I end up pushing binocs in Peru?

Peru is as safe as anywhere

Birding in Peru may have a reputation of not being very safe and I will always dispute this, showing examples of people who have lived in Lima and moved back to the States to find they all of a sudden get burglars or cars broken into. It can happen anywhere. Armed robbery is more traumatic, however…and you can be certain that to anyone it happens, that the same person will be telling the world that such and such place is very dangerous, even if it is a very rare event.

During our 10 years as a company in Peru it has only happened twice that hand-bags or luggage has been stolen from our clients. Of more concern are armed robberies. Not only is it a terrible experience for the people involved. They also loose the equipment for watching and photographing birds with. The last robbery was around 2 years ago near Pantanos de Villa.

Armed robberies are also detrimental to the tourism business as such and very serious events. Luckily, the Peruvian authorities are taken this serious and lots of actions have been taken. We have done a lot of follow up with authorities and police since and we always avoid the sensitive areas. The fact that there has not been any reports of such mishaps since 2 years, is a good sign that the area is safer today.

Stop the demand of stolen birding equipment

I also started investigated where the stolen goods go. It turns out that there is well known black market in Lima. Next question was: Who buys this stuff?  Who is willing to spend 500 dollars on a stolen pair of binoculars that would cost 1500 $ to buy new? When it became clear to me that there are actually guides – natural history guides in Iquitos, Tambopata and Manu – that has need of decent equipment, I knew we had to do something about this. If we could kill the demand on stolen binoculars, then birders would be a less likely target. First step was to let other tour operators know what happened and recommend they’d ask their guides of proof of purchase for their gear.

Vortex binoculars and telesccopes are becoming popular among Peruvian Birders.

After visiting the Rutland Bird Fair in 2007 making some contacts with Vortex, I realized that there was a small (indeed very small) market to import decent but inexpensive equipment to Peru. Vortex (and their line Eagle Optics) became a natural choice partly because of their good prices but more so their unusually good warranty.  The warranty states: In the event that your Vortex product requires service, no matter the cause, Vortex Optics will repair or replace the product at no charge to you. And the warranty is transferable.

Votex Fury 6.5x32

Votex Fury 6.5x32. My favorite for pelagics.

This is particularly good news for the Peruvian birder, who rarely has a insurance for optical equipment to cover for theft. Visiting birders with fancy equipment will be insured and does only have to pay a small deductible to replace their equipment in case of theft or accident. This is not the case for latino americanos, so such inexpensive option as with Vortex with yet great warranty is extremely valuable here.
Since last year, I have been importing around 50 binoculars and 7 telescopes.
The most popular model is Diamondback. It has 8x and 10×42 models and are priced at 249 resp 259 US$. They are totally water proof and very bright with BAK 4 prisms.
On the last order I received what I think shall be for me personally the ultimate pelagic binoculars. The 6.5×32 Vortex Fury on the picture above is extremely bright and has an impressive 3 feet close focus and amazing FOV of 445 ft at 1000 yards. It is a dream to look through with amazing definition.  I’ll keep these to myself. Did I mention the price? 329 US$ including tax. Wow!
UPDATE Feb 15, 2009: I found a review in the Audubon Magazine online. It confirms my opinion that this is an excellent pair of binoculars.
The telescopes are also nice. You get a nice 60mm 20-60x waterproof scope and decent tripod for 520$ The larger 80mm scope with a good sturdy tripod goes for around 720 US$.  There is an Extra Defintion glass version of the larger scope for 300$ more and then you are getting close in quality to the big names. And yes, the same warranty for the scopes and they are waterproof. What more can you ask for?
I just met with several Peruvian tour operators in Chiclayo for the annual Peru Nature Travel Market – and let everyone know that there is no need for any guide to buy stolen goods, when they can buy Vortex optics totally legally, with tax deductible receipts for businesses, less expensive and with outstanding warranty right here in Peru.
The above prices are those available in Peru. For other countries I can through the dealer prices I get, offer Vortex binoculars at very good prices. Contact me for details.
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Is shade grown coffee really bird friendly?

Cerulean Warbler is a threatened tropical migrant that spends the winter at altitudes of mainly 900-1800m along the east slope of the Andes, south to Peru. We conducted a survey for Cerulean Warbler in Central Peru during Jan-March, 2006. We failed to find it, partly due to extreme poor field conditions with a lot of rain making access a big problem. But part of the problem, may be that the habitat is not as good as it used to be.

During the 1998-1999 study from Villa Rica, Smithsonian Institute (Sterling et al) found the Cerulean Warbler only in “rustic” coffee plantations. In such plantations coffee is grown under indigenous shade trees remaining from the native forest before the understory was cleared for coffee. These very old trees have many epiphytes and dead leaves curled up, that serves as hiding places for a lot of bugs. Cerulean Warbler is an expert on gleaning the curled up leaves.

We hardly found any “rustic coffee” habitat during our study in spite that we returned to the same area where Smithsonian Institute had done its survey in the late nineties. Most of what was there 6-8 years ago, has been replaced with fast growing Inga and Albizia as shade trees species that carry no epiphytes and much less leaf cover. Could it be, that the coffee boom that markets shade-grown coffee, does not actually promote the more bird friendly rustic plantations, but rather promotes more mono-cultures with Inga and Albizia, since such areas can still be regarded as shade-grown? The amount of light available for the coffee plant, as well as the humidity, are easier to control. It appears that both yield and quality is higher in such conditions and that the market (ultimately the consumers) does not know how to separate between the terms organic, fair trade, shade-grown and bird-friendly coffee. We interviewed people at the farms and it is clear that many of those areas that previously were considered rustic, have been converted to mono-cultures today.

At some of the plantations importers such as Starbucks have rather strict rules for the coffee producers. Reforestation of indigenous tree species is being made. (They should not have been cut in the first place). But in these certified plantations the planted, often slow-growing, trees are mostly saplings and very small and pays no role, what so ever, to provide food and shelter to the birds.

So what about organic. Should be safe for the eco conscious, right?

Well, not necessarily! Organic plantations are also often not rustic enough to attract the multitude of birds of the rustic coffee plantation. On organic plantations industrial fertilizers are not allowed, and as the definition implies, pest control can not be chemical, but rather biological control. However, if the ecological conditions have changed so much that Cerulean Warbler does no consider the habitat optimum , one cannot really define organic as bird-friendly.

Furthermore, the guano that is used as alternative fertilizer, is either from very “inhumane” chicken farms with thousands of chicken packed together and pumped with antibiotics or from the guano islands home of large colonies of seabirds off the Peruvian coast.
The harvest of this guano is far from bird-friendly. Many of the guano producing bird species have populations that are being decimated every year, due to the depletion of the fish stock by the immense Peruvian anchoveta fishing fleet and during the guano harvest the birds are repetitively disturbed.

Productivity ought to be much lower in these plantations so if more and more coffee drinkers start choosing organic instead of conventional coffee, the total outcome will be that more native primary hill forest will be transformed to these Albiza/Inga monocultures with occasional saplings of native trees to keep up the production.
The bottom line is that maybe some good habitat could have been saved, if the production instead had been maximised with conventional fertilizers.
After all, one of the main reasons, why conventional industrial fertilizer are not liked in Europe and in North America, is that nutrients leak into the environment and resulting in algae blooming and super eutrophic lakes that soon are completely covered in reeds. This is not the case in the rain-forest where there is constant LACK of nutrients. Some leaking nutrients would not be a problem, as they would be immediately absorbed in the ecosystem.
I would like to find a coffee farm that maximises production with fertilizers and compost and that way can set off a large extent of its land as a reserve for birds. It may still be shade grown since 95 % of the coffee is shade grown anyway, but guano from birds would not be used. This would be truly bird friendly coffee. Maybe a side product we can sell to birders. Verified and certified bird friendly Kolibri coffee!

Update Jan 15, 2009:
How do you make the perfect coffee? Just got a tip from Jake Fontenot.
Is it with a Melitta electric coffee machine? No!
Is it with an refined electric expresso machine? No?
Is it with one of those silvery time-glass shaped on the stove machines one see in Spain? No!
Got to be the French Press then? Good, but not!
It is the Aeropress. Perfect coffee and no mess! What more could you ask for?
Thanks for the tip, Jake.

Birding Peru with Kolibri Expeditions
More Birds!

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